So with BB5 road, it is not at all a bad a idea to mark the caliper body with some blobs of paint so that you know if you are about to run out of arm travel or not. However if the brake is not set correctly to start with, or you somehow manage to wear the pads about twice as much as normal, the arm will run out of travel in a somewhat abrupt manner the arm just hits an (invisible) end stop. If BB5 (road) are set correctly with new pads, and the FPA/barrel adjuster are used as necessary there is enough arm movement such that the pads will each wear about 2mm or so before you run out of arm travel. This means that Avid's recommendation is that the pads are replaced after only about one and bit mm is worn off them (from a friction material thickness of ~2.4mm). I'd also note that the wear life of the brake pads is not brilliant in BB5 or BB7 calipers in that the brake pads are held off the disc by springs, and the springs sit within the thickness of the friction material. Should you be using bar end shifters rather than STI/Ergo, BB7 Mtn plus V-brake levers like the Tektro RL520 are significantly better than BB7 Road and regular drop bar levers. Since the power of the brake is directly related to the ratio between how far the lever moves and how far the pads move, and a single-sided brake caliper has to allow for pad wear, a brake with 2-sided adjustment can be made more powerful than one with single sided adjustment. If the pad only adjusts one side, the pad has toove the running clearance, plus however much you've worn off the non-adjustable pad. If the pads adjust both sides, the pads only have to move 2 x the running clearance. If you adjust using the cable adjuster, you are using up the lever throw.Īfter enough cable adjustment, you'll either hit the end stop, or pull the cam over the top, in either case losing braking force. If you adjust using the pad adjuster, you've always got the full throw of the caliper lever arm available to move the pad.
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